A Familiar Sight Across Japan
One of the highlights of a trip to Tokyo is Sensō-ji.
After passing through Kaminarimon and walking through the lively Nakamise shopping street toward the temple, there is a spot where many people stop in their tracks.
A tall, beautiful building glowing in vermilion rises on your left.
It is a five-story pagoda, or gojū-no-tō in Japanese
Its impressive presence and beauty make it one of the area’s top photo spots. It is beautiful during the day, of course, but also at night when it is illuminated. As you walk around Asakusa, you will often come across both Japanese and foreign visitors taking pictures of it just as enthusiastically as they photograph Kaminarimon and the main hall.
Now, after enjoying this beautiful piece of traditional Japanese architecture in Asakusa, some visitors may head to Ueno, just one station away.
As you stroll through the lush greenery of Ueno Park, another imposing multi-tiered tower appears among the trees.
Yes, this is another five-story pagoda.
And if you are planning to visit Kyoto or Nara after Tokyo, you will encounter magnificent five-story pagodas there that seem to carry an even longer history.
Why are there so many towers with such similar shapes at Japanese temples?
And what exactly is a five-story pagoda?
This time, let’s explore the architectural story behind these five-story pagodas, which appear in similar forms across Japan—a story that spans thousands of kilometers and thousands of years.
It Began as a “Tomb” in India
This striking tower, which catches the eye at Japanese Buddhist temples, has a story that began far away, in ancient India.
In ancient India, dome-shaped structures called stupas were built to enshrine Buddhist relics, including the remains of the Buddha, as well as other sacred objects.
Simply put, the distant ancestor of the five-story pagoda was something like a huge sacred “tomb” or monument.
However, as Buddhism spread into East Asia, its form changed significantly.
It Became a “Tall Tower” in China
When Buddhism reached China, the stupa encountered the local architectural culture.
China already had techniques for building tall wooden structures and multi-story pavilions.
As Buddhist stupas merged with these architectural traditions, they gradually developed into “towers” that extended upward.
In China, towers made not only of wood but also of brick and stone developed.
Their plans were not limited to squares, either.
Various forms emerged, including hexagonal and octagonal towers.
Some towers even had stairs inside, allowing people to climb all the way to the top.
In other words, although towers in China retained their religious significance, they also developed more fully as actual “buildings.”
And this culture of tower architecture eventually reached Japan together with Buddhism.
The Five-Story Pagoda Takes Shape in Japan
Buddhism reached Japan via China and the Korean Peninsula around the sixth century.
Along with it came techniques for temple architecture.
In Japan, these techniques were combined with Japanese traditions of wooden architecture and developed into a distinctive style.
One of its representative forms is the structure we now call a five-story pagoda.
Some of the main characteristics are:
- a square plan
- five overlapping roofs
- tiers that become smaller toward the top
- and a sōrin, the spire rising toward the sky
This created the distinctive silhouette that allows us to recognize a five-story pagoda at a glance.
The number “five” in the five-story pagoda is also thought to have a Buddhist meaning.
From the bottom upward:
earth, water, fire, wind, and void.
These are the five elements known as godai, which are considered to make up all things.
In other words, the five-story pagoda expresses the Buddhist view of the universe itself.
And this completed form continued to be passed down for generations.
The Pagoda You Can’t Climb
When travelers see a magnificent five-story pagoda for the first time, many will probably think:
“I’d love to go inside.”
“I’d love to climb to the fifth floor and look out at the view.”
Unfortunately, in most cases, that wish cannot be fulfilled.
In fact, many five-story pagodas are not “five-story buildings” in the ordinary sense.
At the center of the tower is an important pillar called the shinbashira, or central pillar. Around it, a complex wooden structure is assembled, creating the five tiers and their roofs.
That’s right: basically, there is no space designed for people to enter, spend time inside, or, much less, climb stairs and spend time on each floor.
The lowest level may sometimes contain Buddhist images, and some five-story pagodas are opened to the public on special occasions.
However, they are not buildings designed for people to spend time in on a daily basis. The upper levels, even more so, can essentially be thought of as the shinbashira and the structures surrounding it.
In other words, a five-story pagoda is not a “building for people to use,” but a huge monument symbolizing faith.
This also offers one clue as to why the form of the five-story pagoda remained largely unchanged for so long.
If it had been a building for people to live in, hold ceremonies, or look out over the surrounding area, its form might have changed according to the needs of each era.
But a five-story pagoda had no such practical requirements. And perhaps that is precisely why its basic design could be passed down for more than 1,000 years.
Even pagodas rebuilt in modern times or newly constructed can have the same basic design and silhouette as much older pagodas. Since you cannot enter them, there is no need for elevators or reception desks, either.
The five-story pagoda is a form whose basic design was completed in ancient times and then passed down for generations. That is why they can be found all over Japan, and why any Japanese person can immediately look at one and think, “Ah, a five-story pagoda.”
A Journey to Find Five-Story Pagodas
So far, we have looked at the roots of the five-story pagoda.
So where can you see five-story pagodas that allow you to strongly experience their roots and traditions?
When it comes to visiting five-story pagodas from ancient and medieval Japan, Kyoto and Nara are, of course, essential destinations.
Although they no longer survive today, examples of Japan’s earliest towers include Shitennō-ji in Osaka Prefecture and Asuka-dera in Nara Prefecture, both said to have been built in the late sixth century.
Among the historic towers whose actual forms can still be seen today are the following.
Hōryū-ji, Nara
Hōryū-ji in Nara Prefecture is an essential place when talking about Japan’s five-story pagodas.
The existing five-story pagoda is believed to have been built between the late seventh and early eighth centuries, and it is known as one of the oldest wooden structures in the world.
It stands about 32.5 meters tall.
The roofs of each tier become smaller toward the top. Its deep eaves and well-balanced proportions give visitors a sense of how the form of the five-story pagoda developed and reached completion in Japan.
Tō-ji, Kyoto
The five-story pagoda at Tō-ji in Kyoto stands about 55 meters tall.
It is the tallest wooden tower in Japan.
After being destroyed by fire several times, the present tower was rebuilt in 1643.
The powerful silhouette created by its overlapping roofs is one of Kyoto’s representative sights.
It can sometimes be seen from the window of a Shinkansen, giving you the chance to enjoy looking for the five-story pagoda even before you arrive in Kyoto.
Daigo-ji, Kyoto
The five-story pagoda at Daigo-ji in Kyoto was commissioned in 931 to pray for the repose of Emperor Daigo and was completed in 951.
It is known as the oldest surviving wooden building in Kyoto Prefecture.
It stands about 38 meters tall.
The sōrin, which rises high above the tower, accounts for about one-third of its overall height, giving the structure a low center of gravity and a sense of stability.
Historic Five-Story Pagodas Outside Kansai
Outside the Kansai region, historic five-story pagodas include the Haguro-san Five-Story Pagoda in Yamagata Prefecture, Ruriko-ji in Yamaguchi Prefecture, and the Myōō-in Five-Story Pagoda in Hiroshima Prefecture, built in 1348. All of them are designated as National Treasures.
Five-Story Pagodas in Tokyo
Now let’s return to Tokyo.
Compared with Kyoto and Nara, where many five-story pagodas from ancient and medieval times have survived, Tokyo does not have nearly as many old towers remaining.
This is because Tokyo developed as a city from the Edo period onward, and many buildings were lost through earthquakes, fires, and war.
Even so, the stories surrounding Tokyo’s five-story pagodas are also worth exploring.
Sensō-ji, Asakusa
There are records of a three-story pagoda here in the tenth century, and a five-story pagoda was later rebuilt during the Edo period.
However, it was destroyed in air raids during World War II. The present tower was rebuilt in reinforced concrete as part of the postwar reconstruction.
The Hidden History Behind Its Location
When the pagoda was rebuilt, its location within the temple grounds was changed. If you face Sensō-ji, the tower stood on the right before the war, whereas it now stands on the left.
A stone monument remains at the original site, marking its former location.
When you visit Sensō-ji, don’t just look at the five-story pagoda that stands there today. Take a moment to notice where the old pagoda once stood as well.
Kan’ei-ji, Ueno
The five-story pagoda in Ueno was built in 1631 and stands about 36 meters tall.
It was closely associated with Ueno Tōshō-gū, the shrine dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Edo shogunate.
Today, Ueno Zoo surrounds the tower. It can also be seen from the Tōshō-gū side, but except during special openings, you have to enter the zoo to see it up close. That is another slightly curious story unique to Tokyo.
Saved from Demolition During Modernization
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| Tōshō-gū |
From a modern perspective, this may seem like a strange combination.
But until the Edo period, Shinto and Buddhist beliefs in Japan were not necessarily clearly separated and often coexisted.
Then, during the Meiji period, the government promoted shinbutsu bunri, the separation of Shinto and Buddhism. In some extreme cases, Buddhist buildings and statues were destroyed.
The five-story pagoda in Ueno also faced the threat of being lost.
However, it escaped demolition by becoming the property of Kan’ei-ji, one of Edo’s leading temples and one with deep ties to the Tokugawa shogunate.
A witness to history that survived the modernization of Japan—that is the five-story pagoda in Ueno.
Ikegami Honmon-ji, Ota City
It was built in 1608, stands about 29 meters tall, and is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan.
Ikegami in Ota City is known as the place where Nichiren, the founder of a Buddhist school, died, and the area is home to many temples.
The five-story pagoda standing on this sacred site is one of the oldest buildings remaining at Honmon-ji.
Takahata Fudōson, Hino City
Takahata Fudōson in Hino City, western Tokyo, also has a five-story pagoda.
It stands about 36 meters tall. The present five-story pagoda was completed in 1980.
Its elegant vermilion form, surrounded by the greenery of the temple grounds, is also very popular as a photography spot.
It is a good choice for those who want to enjoy a five-story pagoda in surroundings somewhat different from the temples of central Tokyo.
Tokyo Skytree: A Modern Five-Story Pagoda?
It is a new Tokyo landmark that can be clearly seen from Asakusa.
Tokyo Skytree.
“What are you talking about?”
You might wonder what a wooden five-story pagoda and a modern giant tower standing 634 meters tall could possibly have in common.
Here is where Tokyo Skytree’s vibration-control technology comes in.
According to information published by Tokyo Skytree on its website and in other materials, the design of the Skytree drew important inspiration from the central-pillar system, or shinbashira, seen in Japanese five-story pagodas.
Five-story pagodas are slender, tall wooden structures, yet there are relatively few records of them collapsing because of earthquakes, and they have survived for centuries in earthquake-prone Japan.
One reason for their earthquake resistance is the shinbashira. The central pillar helps balance the movement of the surrounding structures, reducing the effects of shaking.
At Tokyo Skytree, the vibration-control system using its central structural element is said to incorporate ideas inspired by traditional Japanese five-story pagodas, including the one at Hōryū-ji.
Of course, as a Tokyo landmark, there is also a symbolic meaning in connecting tradition and modernity.
Even so, the study of wooden architecture from more than 1,000 years ago has been put to use in modern high-rise architecture.
Isn’t this one of the most fascinating aspects of the five-story pagoda?
Scattered Across Japan, a Crystallization of Beauty
“Why are there similar five-story pagodas scattered around Japan?”
It is because five-story pagodas are not practical buildings, but exist for “prayer and architectural beauty,” and have deeply moved people throughout the generations.
The silhouettes of five-story pagodas, whose techniques have been passed down and refined across generations of craftsmen, can truly be called a crystallization of beauty.
Rather, perhaps the fact that “they all look the same” is itself the greatest attraction of the five-story pagoda—and the essence of its beauty.
Once you look at them this way, each five-story pagoda should begin to speak to you with a completely different character.
So, on your next trip to Japan, why not set out to find your own special gojū-no-tō?
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