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A Flower for the Rain: Hydrangeas and Siebold's Lost Love

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  Hydrangeas Painting Tokyo's Rainy Season On a misty June 19th, near a quiet temple in Asakusa, Tokyo, clusters of potted hydrangeas burst into full bloom. Under the heavy, overcast skies of the ra iny season (tsuyu), their vibrant blues and deep purples offer a striking contrast to the gray day. In Japan, this is the season when hydrangeas—known in Japanese as ajisai  —quietly reclaim the corners of shrines, temples, streets, and parks, bringing a serene elegance to the early summer landscape. Though the rain falls steadily, it is the perfect backdrop. The hydrangea is a flower born for the rain—a quintessential symbol of the season that brings a sense of calm to all who pass by. A Flower Loved Since the Manyoshu A hydrangea looks like a delicate floral pom-pom, but it is actually a cluster of tiny blossoms. One of its most fascinating traits is how it changes color—shifting between blue, purple, pink, and white depending on the acidity of the soil. Native to East Asia, uniq...

Sumo Comes Back to Paris: Remembering France's Most Famous Fan

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On June 13 and 14, 2026, a grand sumo exhibition is being held at the Accor Arena in Paris. As the wrestlers move around the city, they inevitably attract attention. Photos of the two yokozuna —the sport's highest rank, often translated as "grand champion"—visiting famous Paris landmarks have even made headlines back in Japan. Away from the ring, sumo wrestlers can appear almost whimsical: towering figures in traditional dress strolling through one of the world's most elegant cities. Yet once they step onto the dohyo , the atmosphere changes completely. Massive bodies collide, silence gives way to explosive bursts of energy, and matches are often decided in a matter of seconds. It is a spectacle that is likely to leave a strong impression on French audiences. The basic rules of sumo are surprisingly simple. Two wrestlers face each other on a circular ring about 4.5 meters in diameter. Victory is achieved by forcing an opponent out of the ring or making any part of ...

One-of-a-Kind Tokyo: 10 Flea Markets for Treasure Hunters

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Tokyo is full of famous attractions and carefully planned sightseeing routes. But some of the city’s most memorable experiences are far more unexpected: forgotten treasures, chance encounters, and stories hidden in plain sight. Welcome to Tokyo’s flea markets. Whether you're searching for vintage fashion, handmade crafts, old cameras, antiques, or simply wandering with curiosity, flea markets reveal a slower and more personal side of Tokyo. It’s not just shopping—it’s treasure hunting, people-watching, and conversation all at once. Here’s a guide to some of Tokyo’s best flea markets held throughout the year. 1. Oi Racecourse Flea Market Location: Oi Keibajo, Shinagawa Schedule: Most Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays One of Tokyo’s largest flea markets, with over 600 stalls spread across the huge parking area beside the racecourse entrance. Vintage clothing is especially popular here, but you’ll also find books, electronics, toys, furniture, and household goods. Food trucks and cas...

Magatama: A Mysterious Design from Ancient Japan

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What We Mean by “Japanese Design” When people think of “Japanese design,” many images come to mind. Ukiyo-e prints, daruma dolls, maneki-neko, traditional patterns, or the kind of minimalism often associated with Zen. Most of these styles took shape between the medieval and early modern periods, developing into what we now recognize as a distinct Japanese aesthetic. But Japan also has designs that are far older. Some date back to a time before written records even existed—among the oldest forms of design in the country. A small, curved bead. A round shape with a hole, and a tail-like projection. It can look like a comma, or a crescent moon. This is the magatama. Most Japanese people recognize the shape instantly, even if they don’t know the name. It appears in school textbooks and museums, but also as jewelry or decorative motifs—so familiar that it’s hard to remember where you first saw it. As it happens, the day this article is being published—June 9—is sometimes casually called “Mag...

The "First Blast" Returns to Tokyo’s Night Sky — Adachi Fireworks Reborn in Early Summer

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As evening fell on May 30, the banks of the Arakawa River in eastern Tokyo came alive. The streets leading from nearby Kita-Senju Station to the riverbanks were already overflowing with people wrapped in a sense of eager anticipation. It was a Tokyo night just a little too early to be called true summer, yet beneath the collective gaze of the crowd, the Adachi Fireworks finally began. Tracing its roots back to 1924, the event along the Arakawa River marked its 48th edition in its current format this year. Its greatest appeal lies in the sheer intensity of its “high-density fireworks” display — approximately 13,000 shells launched non-stop within a single hour. Watching from the Backstreets — Fireworks Blooming Between the Alleys of Shitamachi Strict crowd-control measures surrounded the main riverbank venue for safety reasons. The area was filled with intense excitement, accessible only to those with paid tickets or those who had secured spots hours in advance.  Yet step away from ...

Shibaura: Tokyo’s Quiet Waterfront in Transition

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Beyond the Rainbow Bridge: Tokyo’s Quieter Waterfront In a previous article, we explored Odaiba — Tokyo’s futuristic entertainment island filled with malls, beaches, and spectacular bay views. But if you continue across the Rainbow Bridge on foot, the atmosphere changes dramatically. The Odaiba Dilemma: Tokyo’s Artificial Island of Pride and Embarrassment On the far side of the bridge lies Shibaura — a waterfront district where warehouses still line the streets, pedestrians are surprisingly few, and the atmosphere can feel oddly quiet. Across the water from Odaiba’s artificial beach, the iconic sphere of Fuji TV, and the flashy tourist scenery that people either love or hate, lies something completely different: Shibaura. And yet, this is very much central Tokyo. Shibaura is part of Minato Ward—one of the city’s most prestigious areas. Neighborhoods like Roppongi and Aoyama are not far away at all. Still, the scenery here feels strangely disconnected from the glittering, polished ...

Tokyo Dome: Japan’s Unofficial Unit of Measurement

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  Live in Japan for a little while, and you will inevitably encounter a peculiar expression: “◯◯ is the size of three Tokyo Domes.” Or: “The amount of water used is equivalent to ◯◯ Tokyo Domes.” Sooner or later, a question begins to form: Is Tokyo Dome just a baseball stadium? Or is it some kind of mysterious metric unit that never made it into the SI handbook? Today, Tokyo Dome is so deeply embedded in everyday language that it has effectively become Japan’s most popular unofficial unit of measurement for area — and occasionally even volume. The Birth of a New “Measuring Cup” Opened in 1988 as Japan’s first air-supported stadium and the home of the Yomiuri Giants, Tokyo Dome quickly became one of the country’s most recognizable landmarks. Over the years, it has hosted everything from Mike Tyson ’s infamous upset loss to concerts by The Rolling Stones , Michael Jackson , Madonna , Ed Sheeran , Taylor Swift , and the long-awaited reunion tour of Oasis . Before long, the media an...