Tokyo Curiologue

As evening fell on May 30, the banks of the Arakawa River in eastern Tokyo came alive. The streets leading from nearby Kita-Senju Station to the riverbanks were already overflowing with people wrapped in a sense of eager anticipation.  It was a Tokyo night just a little too early to be called true summer, yet beneath the collective gaze of the crowd, the Adachi Fireworks finally began. Tracing its roots back to 1924, the event along the Arakawa River marked its 48th edition in its current format this year. Its greatest appeal lies in the sheer intensity of its “high-density fireworks” display — approximately 13,000 shells launched non-stop within a single hour. Watching from the Backstreets — Fireworks Blooming Between the Alleys of Shitamachi Strict crowd-control measures surrounded the main riverbank venue for safety reasons. The area was filled with intense excitement, accessible only to those with paid tickets or those who had secured spots hours in advance.  Yet step away...

Beyond the Rainbow Bridge In a previous article, we explored Odaiba — Tokyo’s futuristic entertainment island filled with malls, beaches, and spectacular bay views. But if you continue across the Rainbow Bridge on foot, the atmosphere changes dramatically. The Odaiba Dilemma: Tokyo’s Artificial Island of Pride and Embarrassment On the far side of the bridge lies Shibaura — a waterfront district where warehouses still line the streets, pedestrians are surprisingly few, and the atmosphere can feel oddly quiet. Across the water from Odaiba’s artificial beach, the iconic sphere of Fuji TV, and the flashy tourist scenery that people either love or hate, lies something completely different: Shibaura. And yet, this is very much central Tokyo. Shibaura is part of Minato Ward—one of the city’s most prestigious areas. Neighborhoods like Roppongi and Aoyama are not far away at all. Still, the scenery here feels strangely disconnected from the glittering, polished image many people associate ...

  The Strange Phrase You Keep Hearing in Japan Live in Japan for a little while, and you will inevitably encounter a peculiar expression: “◯◯ is the size of three Tokyo Domes.” Or: “The amount of water used is equivalent to ◯◯ Tokyo Domes.” Sooner or later, a question begins to form: Is Tokyo Dome just a baseball stadium? Or is it some kind of mysterious metric unit that never made it into the SI handbook? Today, Tokyo Dome is so deeply embedded in everyday language that it has effectively become Japan’s most popular unofficial unit of measurement for area — and occasionally even volume. The Birth of a New “Measuring Cup” Opened in 1988 as Japan’s first air-supported stadium and the home of the Yomiuri Giants, Tokyo Dome quickly became one of the country’s most recognizable landmarks. Over the years, it has hosted everything from Mike Tyson ’s infamous upset loss to concerts by The Rolling Stones , Michael Jackson , Madonna , Ed Sheeran , Taylor Swift , and the long-awaited reun...

  Just a few minutes’ walk from JR Nippori Station’s East Exit lies one of Tokyo’s most unexpectedly fascinating shopping streets — Nippori Fabric Town ( 日暮里繊維街 ). Compact yet densely packed with specialty stores, this textile district has become a beloved destination for everyone from professional designers to casual hobbyists and curious travelers. A Haven for Creators Originally developed as a wholesale district for tailors and textile professionals, Nippori Fabric Town has gradually evolved into a welcoming space for all kinds of creators. Students, hobbyists, independent designers, cosplayers, and tourists now wander the street in search of inspiration and unique materials. Despite its quiet, retro neighborhood atmosphere, the area feels surprisingly international once you step inside the shops. You may find yourself browsing alongside foreign cosplayers, fashion students, and fellow travelers, all searching for the perfect fabric or accessory. The variety is remarkabl...

Nakano’s Iconic Landmark Just five minutes from Tokyo’s massive Shinjuku Station on the JR Chuo Line lies one of the city’s most distinctive neighborhoods: Nakano. For fans of Japanese pop culture, anime, manga, music, and collectibles, Nakano has long been a destination unlike anywhere else in Tokyo. The district’s most famous landmark is undoubtedly Nakano Broadway — a maze-like shopping complex built in the 1960s.  Inside, narrow corridors are packed with highly specialized stores selling manga, anime figures, rare idol merchandise, Showa-era retro toys, vintage watches, old cameras, and all kinds of niche collectibles. Today, it is not only beloved by Japanese collectors, but also regarded as one of Tokyo’s essential pilgrimage sites for international anime fans, hobbyists, and curious travelers looking for a deeper side of the city beyond Shibuya and Asakusa. And standing directly outside Nakano Station was another symbol of the neighborhood. A giant white triangular buil...

  The Grave Hidden in Tokyo’s Financial Center In the heart of Tokyo’s Otemachi district, sleek skyscrapers and corporate headquarters dominate the skyline. This is one of the most powerful financial centers in Japan — a world of glass towers, business suits, and relentless efficiency. But hidden among those modern buildings is something strangely out of place. Surrounded by trees and stone walls sits a small, quiet grave known as Masakado-zuka (将門塚, also read Shomon-zuka) — the grave mound of Taira no Masakado, a warrior who rebelled against the imperial court more than 1,000 years ago. According to legend, his severed head rests here. And even today, in the middle of one of the most rational and economically driven places in the world, Tokyo still seems unable to completely ignore him. The Man Who Challenged Kyoto Taira no Masakado was a powerful warrior during the mid-Heian period in the 10th century. At the time, Japan was ruled from Kyoto, while the eastern regions...

  Right next to Tokyo Dome City in Bunkyo Ward — surrounded by a stadium, amusement rides, hotels, and shopping complexes — stands a place that holds a special meaning for judoka around the world. This is the Kodokan (講道館), the worldwide headquarters of judo, often referred to as “the Mecca of Judo.” The Kodokan building stands  beside the roller coaster tracks of Tokyo Dome City. From a Small Tatami Room to a Global Martial Art The Kodokan was established in 1882 by Jigoro Kano (1860–1938), the educator and martial artist who transformed traditional Japanese jujutsu into modern judo. What began as a humble 12-tatami training hall eventually grew into a martial art practiced in more than 200 countries and regions worldwide. Kano was far more than a martial arts master. As principal of Tokyo Higher Normal School — now part of Tsukuba University — he played a major role in shaping modern physical education in Japan, earning recognition as “the father of Japanese physical edu...