Tokyo Curiologue

Heat, Sudden Rain, and Water Everywhere On August 16, I visited the Fukagawa Hachiman Festival, the annual festival of Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine near Monzen-Nakacho Station. This year was the large-scale Honmatsuri , held once every three years. The highlight was the final day, when more than 50 mikoshi of various sizes, representing neighborhood associations across Fukagawa, made their way through the streets. The mikoshi rose and fell to the powerful chants of the carriers. And above all, what makes this festival special is the water. Known as the “Water-Splashing Festival,” it is famous for the way water is poured over the mikoshi as they move through the streets. Shinto priests sprinkle purifying water, while huge amounts of water are sprayed from trucks, temporary platforms, and fire department hoses. People along the streets join in too, armed with buckets and even water guns. The mikoshi carriers, and sometimes the spectators as well, are soaked in no time. The weather was unsta...

On August 15, 2026, the Sumida River near Asakusa had a slightly different atmosphere from usual. There were an astonishing number of people along the river. Many were foreign visitors, and even Azuma Bridge was packed with people. Was this another event like the Sumida River Fireworks Festival? Or perhaps a music festival? No. The people standing in line were holding small paper lanterns. They would light the candles inside them and, one by one, release the lanterns onto the Sumida River from a small riverside ramp. I had come to see toro nagashi, the traditional Japanese custom of floating lanterns on a river or other body of water during the summer Obon season. So, What Is Obon? Bon Odori Before getting into the lanterns themselves, it helps to understand what Obon is. Obon is a traditional summer period when people welcome and honor the spirits of deceased ancestors. It is generally observed around August 13 to 16, although the timing and customs vary from region to region. Accordi...

Every July, one of the biggest highlights of summer in Tokyo is the spectacular Sumida River Fireworks Festival. Around 20,000 fireworks light up the night sky. Thousands of people walk through the streets wearing colorful yukata (traditional summer clothing), while food stalls fill the air with the smells and sounds of a lively festival. For many visitors to Tokyo, this is the ultimate Japanese summer experience — a night they want to experience at least once in their lifetime. But there is one surprising challenge hidden behind this beautiful scene. Actually seeing the fireworks can be much harder than you might expect. And if some of the photos in this article look like I forgot how to take a proper fireworks photo, well... there is a reason. Why Is It So Difficult to Find a Good View? Of course, some people plan far ahead. They reserve paid viewing seats, book restaurants or hotels with a perfect view, visit special rooftop venues, or enjoy the fireworks from a traditional y...