Tokyo Curiologue

Let’s begin with a cold, hard geographical fact: there are no real “mountains” in central Tokyo. This area spreads across lowlands extending from Tokyo Bay, gradually rising toward the western uplands. While skyscrapers dominate the skyline, there are no mountain ranges here in the geological sense. What Is the “Highest” Mountain in Central Tokyo? That said, it wouldn’t be entirely accurate to say that Tokyo has no mountains. If we broaden our view to the Tokyo Metropolis as a whole, the picture changes completely. For example, Mount Kumotori (2,017 m) is the highest peak in Tokyo, located on the border with Yamanashi Prefecture in a truly mountainous region. Meanwhile, Mount Takao (599 m), in Hachioji, has long been known as a site of Buddhist and ascetic training. Thanks to its easy access from central Tokyo, it is now one of the most visited hiking destinations in the world. —But those are not the mountains we’re looking for today. Our focus is strictly on “mountains” in ...

In my previous column, I introduced wisteria (fuji) and briefly touched on hanafuda , the traditional Japanese card game that represents each month with seasonal imagery. This time, I’d like to return to hanafuda once again. The deck, which took its current form in the 19th century during the Edo period, beautifully captures the changing seasons. But if you look closely, you may notice a subtle “mismatch” between the flowers depicted on the cards and the seasons as we experience them today. This time, we’ll focus on the peony (botan), now in full bloom, and explore this curious discrepancy. Wisteria in April, Peonies That Come “Too Early” In hanafuda, peonies appear as the card for June. They are depicted together with butterflies—an established motif known as “peony and butterfly.” This pairing originated in Chinese art, where it symbolized beauty, prosperity, and elegance, and was later adopted and widely appreciated in Japan. By the Edo period, it had become a familiar art...

In my February and March columns, I explored Japan’s seasonal flower culture through plum blossoms and cherry blossoms. And along the way, I realized something. It connects to a traditional Japanese card game I introduced before: Hanafuda . Unlike Western playing cards, Hanafuda has no numbers. Each month is represented purely through imagery, creating a visually rich and uniquely Japanese game. In this system, February is symbolized by plum blossoms, and March by cherry blossoms. So naturally, we shouldn’t stop there. April has its own flower as well. Fuji—wisteria. April features fuji (wisteria) paired with a cuckoo—a classic combination   When the cherry blossoms fall, many people feel a quiet sense of loss. But that moment is not an ending—it’s a transition. In late April, a new presence quietly takes over the city. Long clusters of purple flowers begin to cascade down from above, forming what can only be described as a “curtain of violet.” This is Fuji. Fuji —...

  After the Peak at Chidorigafuchi On April 8, I visited Chidorigafuchi, one of Tokyo’s most iconic spots, just as the cherry blossom season was drawing to a close. I had missed the peak bloom, but some blossoms still clung to the branches. Petals drifted through the air like snow—a scene known in Japanese as sakura fubuki , or“cherry blossom blizzard.” It was a quiet reminder that the season had come to an end in Tokyo. A little sad, yet undeniably beautiful. That said, I wasn’t there just to take in the afterglow. This year’s sakura season came with a piece of news that caught my attention. A cherry tree at this famous spot had collapsed. 本日（４月２日）明け方、千鳥ヶ淵緑道脇にあるさくら（ソメイヨシノ）１本が倒木し、緑道の一部を閉鎖させていただいております。 皆様にはご不便をおかけしますが、緑道などの安全管理を徹底してまいりますので、安心してお花見をお楽しみください。… pic.twitter.com/gYynFD34Mp — 千代田区 (@chiyoda_city) April 2, 2026 It reportedly fell in the early morning of April 2, right around peak bloom. Strong winds and rain the night before are believed to have been the direct cause....

Ginza is one of Japan’s most luxurious shopping districts, where global flagship stores compete for attention along immaculate boulevards. Apple occupies one corner, Tiffany & Co. another, and nearly every building seems to house a world-famous brand. Luxury is the default atmosphere here. But among them, there is one store drawing an unusually large crowd—and it might not be what you expect. On March 28, 2026, a new store opened in this prime location. Its exterior is sleek, and inside, it’s packed with international visitors. It’s the flagship store of JINS —a Japanese budget eyewear chain. A “Smart” Eyewear Experience Step inside, and you immediately notice that this is not your typical glasses shop. The space is bright, open, and carefully organized. Customers freely pick up frames and try them on, almost like browsing in a fashion store. One feature stands out: an AI-powered measurement device. Stand in front of it, and the system scans your face, measu...

April 1st. Rain in the morning. During cherry blossom season, rain is often called “flower-scattering rain” — something people usually dread. Still, I went out early to see the cherry blossoms along the Sumida River. Every bud had opened. It was fair to call it full bloom. But in some trees, leaves were already beginning to appear. Petals drifted in the wind, and the rain-soaked ground was tinted soft pink. The peak had just passed, and the blossoms were beginning their slow journey toward the end— though they would likely remain at their best through the coming weekend. Despite the rain, it was a day you could easily call “perfect timing.” And yet, this idea of perfect timing is exactly what makes cherry blossoms so difficult. Everyone wants to see them at their best. But the timing changes every year. And for travelers coming from abroad— especially those planning their trips months in advance— this uncertainty becomes even more frustrating. Cherry blossoms resist predic...