Tokyo Curiologue

A Familiar Streetscape Begins to Fade Since late June 2026, a quiet but significant change has been unfolding in the heart of Asakusa, Tokyo. On Denpoin-dori, a beloved side street the dismantling of a long-standing row of small shops has begun. Visitors to the area will now find shutters permanently rolled down, with some sections already undergoing demolition. The distinctive streetscape that has delighted generations of travelers is slowly fading away. Denpoin-dori is a narrow street that runs in front of Denpoin, a sub-temple of Senso-ji. It has long been known for its tightly packed, narrow-fronted shops, some barely wider than a doorway.  For decades, around thirty merchants sold everything from kimono and traditional zori sandals to souvenirs and Japanese sweets. Together, they created a picturesque and nostalgic atmosphere reminiscent of old Edo-style row houses, or nagaya . Connecting Nakamise-dori—the famous approach leading from Kaminarimon Gate to Senso-ji Temple—with ...

  Hydrangeas Painting Tokyo's Rainy Season On a misty June 19th, near a quiet temple in Asakusa, Tokyo, clusters of potted hydrangeas burst into full bloom. Under the heavy, overcast skies of the ra iny season (tsuyu), their vibrant blues and deep purples offer a striking contrast to the gray day. In Japan, this is the season when hydrangeas—known in Japanese as ajisai  —quietly reclaim the corners of shrines, temples, streets, and parks, bringing a serene elegance to the early summer landscape. Though the rain falls steadily, it is the perfect backdrop. The hydrangea is a flower born for the rain—a quintessential symbol of the season that brings a sense of calm to all who pass by. A Flower Loved Since the Manyoshu A hydrangea looks like a delicate floral pom-pom, but it is actually a cluster of tiny blossoms. One of its most fascinating traits is how it changes color—shifting between blue, purple, pink, and white depending on the acidity of the soil. Native to East Asia, uniq...